strolling along

We had some wonderful days in Adicore a small coastal town on the Paraguana peninsula. It was not as touristy as Tucacas and the beaches were a tad cleaner. We left Coro and headed straight south to the mountains of Sierra De San Luis. We found the most beautiful pasada yet. A magical cabin-esque dwelling situated at the beginning of the national park on a hill surrounded by rich vegetation, mango, grapefruit and orange trees. The name of the place was El Duende (elf, gnome or magician). The old owner was a magician himself (who reminded me of my grandfather) and showed us several of his magic tricks. He had a hard time stumping zarha and she was a little Houdini herself! able to to untangle metal pieces with her great focus and persistence as well as declare the secrets of his tricks. That's my kid! we hiked high into the mountains enjoying the cool moist air a nice change from arid Coro. We went into a magical forest with a 300 yr old ceiba tree. I truly felt I had walked into a sacred temple and I gave thanks for all the beauty and amazing experiences of our trip. We didn't even get to the caves and the waterfalls of the park so there is much more to come back for!
It was worth the hike up the steep hill with our ridiculously bulky heavy backpacks that we have been lugging across the country. We have a months worth of stuff and it is not the best thought out gear! Andy's poor back. he is weighted down the most more than the poor mules we passed in the mountains. Zarha is excellent with her pack. She is a strong kid and rarely complains. I guess I`m the week link in this department. My pack and I are not getting along all that well. Generally we don't have to carry them that far. lift the bag to a taxi to pasada to bus station. not too bad.
I could have stayed another week on the peninsula it is a very dynamic place. A small mountain smack in the middle of the peninsula, a desert with great sand dunes, beautiful beaches and interesting ghost towns. The coast is my happiest most reflective place. The cool breeze, hot sun and warm waters is the recipee for reflecting on the meaning of life. Will get back to you on those thoughts.
We are in Maracaibo now and the lonely planet sums it up "hot as hell and rich with oil." We went to our first real fancy Restaurant. Of course we came waltzing in looking like the bohemian travelers that we are and had a 4 course meal high above the city in a rotating high rise restaurant. Still the whole meal with a great tip, was $60! Restaurant owned by Best Western not normally culinarys best but it was great in comparison to a lot of food we have had. Afterwards we walked along Maracaibo lake (South Americas largest lake, with gobs of oil below) looking out onto the lights of the longest bridge in South America. It was very peaceful and clean. We took Zarha to a go cart race track. Strange to find this in the middle of a park at 11pm at night. The cars cruised and again fearless Zarha skillfully raced the track leaving me in her dust. I thought I had a lead foot but I was like a Sunday driver in Connecticut on those tracks. Then our carriage turned back into a pumpkin and we scampered back to the worst hotel we have stayed in yet. There was not much available near the bus station on a Friday holiday weekend and I will spare the disgusting details of the hotel! It does bring to mind the Cucaracha song. Cucaracha cucaracha....
We leave tonight December 30Th for Merida! we will get into Merida to celebrate the new year with a grand fiesta that Merida is famous for! The bus ride will be about 10 hours or more through the Andes and sadly all the buses go at nite so we miss most the sites of the trip.
thanks for all those who have written comments and emails. we have not been gone that long but it is great to hear from folks!
much love