Some Wine, Conversations, Diplomatic Arrogance
Andy

After the Day`s heat the night here is so welcome, with it`s breeze and clean air. As we move to the Northwest of Venezuela, the temperatures rise and the land looks more like a desert. This Posada that we`ve been staying at going on three nights is the most social one we`ve been at. We had Christmas eve dinner last night with Eric, a French expat who owns and runs the posada with his Valencian wife, Eric`s mother visting from France, Four wild Basque tourists who supplied Spanish and Chilean wine and Ron (Rum) all night, 2 German hippy punks who had been in Merida for 4 months studying Spanish and Latin American literature, and a French Canadian Diplomat who works for the Canadian Embassy in Caracas. Christmas is huge in Venezuela, so it was nice to have a party scene of internationals to share it with.

The Basques spoke only Spanish, in a really fast Basque accent, but the Germans spoke perfect English and seemed delighted to switch to English from Spanish. The Conversations with the Canadian Diplomat turned a bit contentious. From the start she seemed to look down on us. Its just a sense I had, and in later discussions her tone only confirmed this. I told her about the video that we hope to edit dealing with the Bolivarian Project, elections, etc. Dawn asked here about her views on what was happening with Chavez, etc. She came down harshly on Chavez, despite her pround claims that Canada is much more open, diplomatically speaking, than the US. She really sounded like she could be from the US State Dept. Tariq Ali, in his book Pirates of the Carribean, uses the term "Washington Consensus" to describe the neoliberal doctrine that became a monolithic model for developing countries after the cold war. He mentions briefly that Canada is right in line with the US when it comes to the "Washington Consensus". So it started to make sense that the Canadian diplomat`s views on the Bolivarian Revolution would be so negative.

She said that under Chavez "the space of democracy is shrinking". To support this she talked about NGOs (non-governmental organizations) not being allowed to function freely in Venezuela, and the fact that the government acts in an intimidating manner towards citizens who work for the government and/or recieve services from the government. In addition, she talked about the petition that was used to attempt to recall Chavez in the national referendum, 2004. She said that the names on the signature are publically available in books and data bases, and this makes the opposition very fearful of reprisals.

When we asked follow-up questions, such as whether the petitions were indeed aknowledged as public documents (as they are in the US), and whether any president in Venezuelan history has allowed for a process such as a recall referendum, She snapped "really, how can you understand the situation without knowing Spanish?" At this point she talked about how Chavez is a polarizing figure, about how he befriends dictators like in Iran. I asked if she thought that Iran was a US created distraction from the failure in Iraq. At this point she rolled her eyes with such exaggerated disbelief that it was clear the conversation was over.

It`s funny to feel on a personal level the arrogance of the neoliberal doctrine. I'm not under the impression we`re any kind of experts on Latin American Politics, or that it wouldn't help immensely to be fluent in Spanish in order to understand the Bolivarian Process and the effects its having on the world. But we are learning the language slowly, we have participated in groups with translators, and have studied the situation to some extent. The Canadian diplomat`s responses in the conversation said, to me, that in her world view there is no room to challenge the Washington Consensus. This in spite of the fact that its presumably her job, as a diplomat working for the Canadian Embassy, to understand the dynamics of Venezuelan Politics.

strolling along

We had some wonderful days in Adicore a small coastal town on the Paraguana peninsula. It was not as touristy as Tucacas and the beaches were a tad cleaner. We left Coro and headed straight south to the mountains of Sierra De San Luis. We found the most beautiful pasada yet. A magical cabin-esque dwelling situated at the beginning of the national park on a hill surrounded by rich vegetation, mango, grapefruit and orange trees. The name of the place was El Duende (elf, gnome or magician). The old owner was a magician himself (who reminded me of my grandfather) and showed us several of his magic tricks. He had a hard time stumping zarha and she was a little Houdini herself! able to to untangle metal pieces with her great focus and persistence as well as declare the secrets of his tricks. That's my kid! we hiked high into the mountains enjoying the cool moist air a nice change from arid Coro. We went into a magical forest with a 300 yr old ceiba tree. I truly felt I had walked into a sacred temple and I gave thanks for all the beauty and amazing experiences of our trip. We didn't even get to the caves and the waterfalls of the park so there is much more to come back for!
It was worth the hike up the steep hill with our ridiculously bulky heavy backpacks that we have been lugging across the country. We have a months worth of stuff and it is not the best thought out gear! Andy's poor back. he is weighted down the most more than the poor mules we passed in the mountains. Zarha is excellent with her pack. She is a strong kid and rarely complains. I guess I`m the week link in this department. My pack and I are not getting along all that well. Generally we don't have to carry them that far. lift the bag to a taxi to pasada to bus station. not too bad.
I could have stayed another week on the peninsula it is a very dynamic place. A small mountain smack in the middle of the peninsula, a desert with great sand dunes, beautiful beaches and interesting ghost towns. The coast is my happiest most reflective place. The cool breeze, hot sun and warm waters is the recipee for reflecting on the meaning of life. Will get back to you on those thoughts.
We are in Maracaibo now and the lonely planet sums it up "hot as hell and rich with oil." We went to our first real fancy Restaurant. Of course we came waltzing in looking like the bohemian travelers that we are and had a 4 course meal high above the city in a rotating high rise restaurant. Still the whole meal with a great tip, was $60! Restaurant owned by Best Western not normally culinarys best but it was great in comparison to a lot of food we have had. Afterwards we walked along Maracaibo lake (South Americas largest lake, with gobs of oil below) looking out onto the lights of the longest bridge in South America. It was very peaceful and clean. We took Zarha to a go cart race track. Strange to find this in the middle of a park at 11pm at night. The cars cruised and again fearless Zarha skillfully raced the track leaving me in her dust. I thought I had a lead foot but I was like a Sunday driver in Connecticut on those tracks. Then our carriage turned back into a pumpkin and we scampered back to the worst hotel we have stayed in yet. There was not much available near the bus station on a Friday holiday weekend and I will spare the disgusting details of the hotel! It does bring to mind the Cucaracha song. Cucaracha cucaracha....
We leave tonight December 30Th for Merida! we will get into Merida to celebrate the new year with a grand fiesta that Merida is famous for! The bus ride will be about 10 hours or more through the Andes and sadly all the buses go at nite so we miss most the sites of the trip.
thanks for all those who have written comments and emails. we have not been gone that long but it is great to hear from folks!
much love

Christmas in Corro

We have landed for several days in this small cozy town just a bit south of this grand peninsula and desert area. This town is the cleanest thus far, and has the longest standing architecture from back in the days of hundreds and hundreds of years ago. It is such a magical little town with cobble stone streets and a divine Cathedral. It must be wedding season because this one church is churning out the married couples. At night all we see is brides and wedding goers all dressed up and trying to walk on the cobblestone with heels. that's funny!
our posada is owned by this french expat who is married to a Venezuelan and they have a cute 3yr old boy. Their posada has a really beautiful courtyard full of hammocks and animals. It is quite the international scene. Lots of backpack travelers from all over the world. We are the only people from the States. We don't run into many travelers from the States and when we do its almost an unspoken code to ignore each other. weird.
We had a crazy bus ride into this town. the driver went about 90mph and tailgated so close to the bus in front it was only a hand length away. That was certainly an adrenaline rush! I curse a lot in English here and that was one of the times! I cant imagine the bus ride down to Merida through the Andes Mt's. yikes. After Christmas we are heading to Maracaibo the hottest city on earth (or in South America, I stand corrected!) and the one with most indigenous people in Venezuela.
Santa is having a heck of a time here. Need to find small simple things to travel with and shopping on the 24th is never easy! wow. the lines and chaos! There is a couple IOUs among the gifts from Sant this year. We will have a relaxing Feliz Navidad fiesta with all the expats at the posada tonight. I guess nino Jesus will come and bring presents. I hope I get a horseback ride in the desert this Christmas and the abilities I need to learn to kite sail!
We are really on the vacation leg of our journey now. Just soaking up the sun, exploring new places and trying to find all the foods we like is enough work everyday!
Santa had better get out off the Internet the last shopping hours are running out and the elves are closing shop soon.
Happy holidays and continue to fight for justice and peace in Oaxaca and Iraq!